Saint Ives, Cornwall

St Ives is often listed in the top ten places to visit in Cornwall and it’s easy to see why by just looking at a handful of photos. But you need to submerge yourself in the maze of cobbled streets and the local art scene as well as enjoy its beautiful beaches and harbour to truly understand why. Not to mention the plethora of locally owned independent shops and cafes.

Travel and location

One of St Ives’ benefits is that it’s on the railway network. Travelling from Bristol is straightforward and a beautifully scenic journey, with much of the journey hugging coastlines. It takes around 4 hours and 30 minutes from Bristol Temple Meads travelling with GWR, with one change at St Erth for the final leg into St Ives.

The station at St Ives overlooks Portminster Beach. It’s the perfect backdrop for your arrival although can induce melancholy for your departure. The railway and local buses enable so many other places to visit nearby, and my favourites from St Ives are a visit to St Michael’s Mount (from Penzance station by train) and Mousehole. Also, on foot from St Ives you can explore coastal walks to Carbis Bay and Hayle to the east, or to Mans Head and Clodgy Point to the west. There’s also boat trips available from the harbour, the most popular to ‘Seal island’ to see the colony of Atlantic Grey Seals. Something I’ve yet to do.

Accomodation

I use St Ives Holidays for most of my visits, and usually organise a grocery delivery from a local supermarket to arrive at my accommodation the same day. St Ives Holidays has over 200 self-catering holiday properties which vary from studio apartments to cottages and homes that accommodate large families.

I’ve stayed twice at Driftwood Studio, a lovely seafront apartment on Pednolva Walk. My arrival one October day coincided with a particularly rough high tide that prevented access to my accommodation for a little while, so it is sometimes worth looking at the tide times.

St Ives art scene

The unique quality of light and landscape has attracted artists to St Ives for generations, but it really came into its own as an artistic centre following the second world war and became important in the British modernist movement, with artists such as Barbara Hepworth relocating to the town.

The home, studio, and garden where Barbara Hepworth worked is now the Barbara Hepworth Museum and sculpture garden, a fascinating place to visit and inspirational for anyone with an artistic interest. I found the sculpture garden particularly interesting, with Hepworth’s bronze sculptures emerging from the trees and somehow complementing the wider traditional St Ives skyline.

Tate St Ives, who manage the Barbara Hepworth Museum, is also a must visit. On my last visit I was able to buy a ticket that included entry for both, however it’s worth checking as ticket offers can change. The museum usually exhibits modern and contemporary arts and is overlooks Porthmeor beach. The museum’s café and terrace have beautiful views across the town and coast.

The Leach Pottery is another museum and studio which I’d recommend for anyone interested in ceramics. The pottery was founded in the 1920s by Bernard Leach, an influential ceramic artist. You can explore the museum’s collection as well as watch resident potters at work, using their unique style which combines traditional Japanese and western techniques. The centre also offers courses and classes.

There’s also a range of local artist studios and galleries you can visit, many grouped on the Porthmeor side of town.

My favourite places to eat in St Ives

One thing I won’t mention here is fish and chips. There’s plenty of choice around the town and all as good as each other. If my opinion changes on my next visit, I’ll update this.

Blas burgerworks
You can find Blas on Warren, the delightful narrow street that leads from Pednolva Walk towards the train station and Porthminster beach. The menu includes a variety of speciality burgers using local ingredients and rotisserie. Drinks are from Cornish suppliers too and there’s vegan options. Blas is always busy so booking in advance might be a good idea.

Moomaid of Zennor
It’s not a holiday without having an ice cream, right? I recommend trying Moomaid’s delicious local ice cream made with Cornish clotted cream. Treat yourself to a sundae or just take away a cup or cone from their parlour on St Andrew’s Street.

Pengenna Pasties
It wouldn’t be a visit to Cornwall without sampling pasties and a cream tea. I did the hard work of sampling many local suppliers and found that Pengenna Pasties is the best and supplies both for you to take away. You can find them on High Street.

The Mex
If you need a break from the traditional Cornish diet, I thoroughly recommend eating at The Mex, a colourful Mexican restaurant on Gabriel Street. The menu has all the Mexican classics you’d expect and a substantial drinks menu including specialist tequilas and frozen cocktails. Take aways are also available.

That’s it for now…

There’s so much more to say about St Ives and this beautiful area of Cornwall, but it’s probably been said already. I’ll definitely visit again, and perhaps I’ll share more thoughts then.